![]() ![]() ![]() You may find that it works perfectly for you and, if so, it's a great sounding device - I love the squarewave sound, coupled with a little sub octave. I bought an attenuator pedal and tried that: No dice.īut this is just my tale of woe. So it's my bass, right? Well I have a Lakland 4401 (active) which it just wouldn't get any sort of consistent result from, but I also have an Ibanez AEB10E acoustic which would yield only marginally more consistent results. So I sold it and the guy who bought it seems to have none of my problems. I carefully hunted down all the advice and instruction I could online, adjusted and tested the internal trim pot through every possible setting, and contacted EHX for advice (they weren't that helpful). I found that signal gating would occur unexpectedly, that pitch tracking on the sub octave was somewhat random when playing on the lower frets on the lower strings, and the amp would fluctuate, seemingly on it's own accord, dropping my level drastically half way through a riff. ![]() But the BMS, while sounding great, was a total nightmare to get it to track consistently, not even reliably, just a consistent result. I loved the sound of it, so much so that when I sold it I bought 3 other pedals to recreate some of what I loved, and they don't quite hit it. Other than that though, I’m pretty much finally out of both space and power, I have to say it feels liberating.I had one of the current models but sold it after a couple of weeks. I have had it for nearly 10 years I think. I also plan on replacing the Hall of Fame with a Strymon Flint and probably replace the VD400 with a higher quality Analog Delay, this one is bound to wear out on me soon. I intend to drop the loop pedal off my board eventually and add a pitchfork early in the chain. It pairs REALLY nicely with the Nightwire. It makes for a nice glitchy effect I guess, but might get old soon. I’m a little disappointed in the sub octave voice that my device has, it tends to oscillate between sub octave and regular octave. I finally received the Bass Microsynth after several weeks of being lost in the mail. When I utulize a wah, I power it off the Polytune actually. I run the Compressor I built off the ISO 5’s 18V output. Customer service was not the best)Īll powered by a Voodoo Labs PP2+ and ISO 5. I also have an amp channel footswitch from Saturnworks (this actually came wired incorrectly and I had to basically rebuild it myself using their enclosure. NS-2 Send > Bass Micro Synth > Night Wire > Phase 90 Script > TS9 > Big Muff Tonewicker > Golden Horsie > Donner Viper > Hughes & Kettner Tubemeister Deluxe 20 input.Įffects Loop Send > NS-2 Return NS-2 Output > EHX Canyon (with Saturnworks tap tempo) > Behringer VD400 > RC-1 > Hall of Fame > Effects Loop Return. Signal chain: Fender American Pro Strat > (sometimes Crybaby Wah) > Polytune 3 > BYOC 5-knob Compressor > NS-2 Input This is a big reason why I want to add a Flint to my arsenal in the future. Having the big muff after it drowns out the effect, so I don’t really use it in that way. When paired with my new Micro Synth, the attack mode is super useful for getting really synthy. That feature is well worth the premium for the newer model in my opinion. This is the version 2 with relay based switching, so I can hold down the button for a momentary effect. One thing that really bothers me about t is that the relay switching causes it to always power on when first plugged up. I highly recommend using an external tap tempo though, made it loads more useful. I don’t normally go heavy with delay though. I have been keeping it on the shimmer setting usually, but like the Memory Man setting a lot as well. It’s pretty good as a Swiss Army knife pedal, but I get quite a bit of tone suck from it. I use it to bring out the big muff usually, and other general boost uses.Ī lot of people on this sub recommend the Canyon. This one is much better than the first one I tried. If you manage to get a good one, the pedal actually sounds great. I have since marked both ends of that cable so that I never make that mistake again, fortunately Mosky pedals are dirt cheap. I had the silver horse before that always had a high pitched hum to it, but I accidentally fried it when I connected it to the 18V power cable by mistake. It wiggles around a bit on my board but it gets the job done I suppose. That’s pretty much the only part of the pedal that reliably adheres to the vector. The rubber feet could be taken off, sure, but there is a large rectangular plastic support the same depth as the feet in the middle of the pedal. The Donner Viper appears to be a pedalboard friendly volume/expression pedal but it is actually very difficult to secure it to the Velcro. ![]()
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